The mountains, including the resort we were to go to, Valle Nevado, are just a short two hour drive from Santiago, and we booked up for two full days on the slopes leaving each morning from the city and returning at night. It seems amazing that this is possible and the perks of Chile's capital were beginning to become apparent to me! That afternoon we were also able to squeeze in a little bit of sightseeing, taking in the beautiful main square and the old/new architectural contrasts.
We awoke early the next day, very excited to be heading off up the hill. The scenery on the way was amazing in itself: never have I driven past cacti in the hills on the road up to the ski slopes before! As we climbed we also drove past small herds of cows, donkeys and horses which would occasionally wander across the road, seemingly unaware of the distress they were causing to the drivers on the road. About two thirds of the way up, snow started to appear on the ground and before we knew it (and just about at the point where we thought the driver's terrible taste in music might have driven us crazy!), the resort appeared in front of us. The main building was very modern and included the entrance to Chile's first gondola type ski lift. We were kitted out in there with much better equipment than I had expected and headed out into the snow! The snow this year has been less good than what was hoped. After a very good start to the season, they have had little more to top up, however the base layer is solid and there is enough to get round a lot of the mountain. On the (very) bright side, the weather was absolutely fantastic, there was not a cloud in the sky either day and it was just cold enough that the snow was not turning to slush but not cold enough to need more than a few layers. By Southern Hemisphere standards, the resort is large, and there was certainly enough to keep us more than occupied over the two days. The resort boasts an excellent variety of runs, nothing super challenging bit mostly sweeping and wide which is perfect for a short trip. I cannot explain how amazing it was to be back out on skis, especially, as we kept noting with disbelief, as it was July - so strange for us, coming from the Northern Hemisphere!
The two days came and went far too quickly, however we knew there was plenty more that Santiago had on offer so the next day (albeit after a bit of a lie in!), we went in search for some sights and culture. The rather grey picture we had perceived the first day was shattered under a glorious sun. As we walked through the centre of the city, we saw more beautiful buildings, such as the national theatre and many stunning modern glass structures. We then came to the Cerro Santa Lucia (Santa Lucia Hill) and climbed right to the Castillo at the top for wonderful views over Santiago. We also visited both the National Fine Art gallery and that of Modern Art. The former was certainly better at the time of our visit, as the latter was having some building works which only left onlu one exhibition on display. That evening we sampled what the city had on offer in terms of a nightlife. This included trying the infamous drink known as a Terremoto, or Earthquake, made up of a concoction of pineapple juice, wine, Fernet (a herby dark liquor) and a couple of scoops of ice cream on the top! We spent on final day in Santiago the following day, resting up and making plans for our next stages.
First on our list was the holiday playground of the wealthy of Santiago: Valparasio and neighbouring Viña del Mar. We arrived with just enough time in the afternoon to take a walk around the latter, past casinos and castles built by the wealthy of the past and present. We finished off the day watching the sun set over the sea on a beach packed with holidaying Chileans (it being the winter holiday period) with an ice cream. It was perfect.
The next day also involves lots of walking as we took in the sites of Valparasio. The walls of the main tourist and residential "hill" neighbourhoods are covered with intricate and, mostly, beautiful graffiti. The Cerro Bellavista (Bellavista Hill), even has a Museo de Cielo Abierto or "Open Sky Museum" of wall paintings by previous students of the art museum, some now well known artists. In the same neighbourhood we visited one of the houses which previously belonged to the Nobel Prize winner Pablo Neruda, from which there is a wonderful view over the bay. The view from the, otherwise somewhat disappointing, Museo del Mar de Lord Cochrane was also superb, looking directly over the main square. We also rode in one of the infamous elevators which take you up to the various hills and lunched on seafood soup. I've never seen so many different types of seafood in one dish!
That evening we sat watching the world go by, on some steps near our hostel looking at a beautiful view over the sea and drinking mate (herbal tea) with two Argentian girls. The hostel, as we have found in more and more Chilean hostels, had more Chileans and Argentinians, which means we are practicing our Spanish more and more! We spent the evening therefore chatting with the other residents over piscocolas (pisco mixed with coke) and beer.
Early the next morning we left on a bus bound for Mendoza, Argentina - yet another country on our list. We plan to return to Chile after our visit there, as geographically it makes more sense on our route. I look forward to telling all about this area famous for its wine production in the next instalment!
Lots of love,
Emma
I am very jealous of your visit to Lord Cochrane's house. He was the inspiration for my two favourite fictional heroes, Hornblower and Jack Aubrey.
ReplyDeleteWhat a lot you manage to pack in!
So glad you're having such a wonderful time.